GD — Society for Dermopharmacy
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Issue 2 (2002) |
Dermocosmetics
Multi-functional Emulsion Systems
Not only Active Agent Carrier, but also
Individual Cosmetic Active Principle
Consumers have an expectancy towards modern skin care products to achieve
a swift and reproducible improvement of their skin condition. In order
to fulfil this claim, a continuously increasing interest is directed at
the development of skin-caring topical preparations. The bases of skin
care products are understood today not only as excipient but also as individual
cosmetic active principle. This is why in product development it is increasingly
fallen back to raw materials, which assume several functions in the final
product. Examples for such raw materials are lipoproteins and sugar emulsifiers.
This is the basis to produce finished products, which can be designated
as multi-functional emulsion systems.
Dr. Armin Wadle, Henkel, presented these innovative galenic systems on the occasion of the symposium "Effects of Dermocosmetics" organized by the Gesellschaft für Dermopharmazie in Düsseldorf on 17 October 2001. Wadle pointed out how these multi-functional emulsion systems are produced and stabilized and which skin-physiological benefit they offer for the user.
Skin Care Creams on
the Basis of Lipoproteins
Lipoproteins consist of proteins or protein hydrolysates, which are derived from seeds of different plants (e.g. peas and oats). According to their amino acid sequence they possess an amphiphilic character with hydrophilic and lipophile partial structures. This property for example is exploited in the food industry for the emulsion production.
In skin care products lipoproteins are predominantly used today as active substances for the improvement of skin tolerability or feel. Recent physico-chemical tests have however shown that lipoproteins are also applied for stabilization of cosmetic oil-in-water-emulsions besides their classical application field of emulsification.
Lipoprotein-creams are thus composed on the basis of a purely vegetable emulsification system. As Wadle explained, they are therefore characterized by excellent skin compatibility and exert at the same time a positive effect on skin roughness and skin moisture in correspondence with the multi-functional approach of a modern cream basis.
Lamellar Creams
with Sugar Emulsifiers
Lamellar creams on the basis of sugar emulsifiers are similarly structured as the inter-cellular lipids in the stratum corneum. According to information by the lecturer these creams improve the barrier properties of skin and lead to a reproducible increase of skin moisture and tightness.
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Additional information about the contents of the lecture held by Dr. Armin Wadle at the GD Symposium "Effects of Dermocosmetics" in Düsseldorf on 17 October 2001 is contained in the German issue 2/2002 of the E-Journal of DermoTopics (www.dermotopics.de) under the titles "Multi-functional Emulsion Systems". |