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  Issue 1 (2006)

Book Review
Bernd Ziolkowsky (Ed.)

Raw Material Encyclopaedia 2005/2006. Cosmetics Annual 2005

Publishing house for the chemical industry H. Ziolkowsky GmbH. Augsburg 2005. 75.00 Euro. ISBN 3-87846-250-6

This raw material encyclopaedia 2005/2006 - subtitle Cosmetics Annual 2005 - has been published for 29th time and is an - for the cosmetologically oriented dermopharmacist - almost indispensable work of reference. It provides an overview of the present-day market of raw materials employed in cosmetics. Considered were more than 4600 different substances.

The Encyclopedia is divided in two parts. The first part consists of an alphabetical listing in tables as per the brand names of the considered substances on more than 1300 pages. Given are the chemical structure, different substance characteristic, the designation according to INCI (International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients), the effect claimed, areas of application as well as producers and suppliers.

A listing of substances correspondent to intended uses commences in the second part, starting on page 1035. Here for example surfactants, emulsifiers, lipid components, conditioning agents, thickeners and cosmetic active agents can be retrieved. Surfactants for example are to be found in the chapter "Surfactant, Co-Surfactant".

Further, the alphabet continues with "Abietoyl soy polypeptide". What is hidden behind this term may be referred to in the first part of the work. Specifically, it can be retrieved on page 12 of the issue that the INCI designation is "Potassium Abietoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein".

In "application" the reader is informed that this surfactant is recommended for the formulation of skin cleansing agents for oily skin. Besides additional information also the CAS number is indicated for a better identification of the substance. Finally, also the information referring to the producing company Sinerga is submitted - which has been unknown to me so far.

The work addresses in the first place cosmetic chemists who deal with the development and production of cosmetical agents. For them the raw material encyclopaedia represents an important search aid for the identification of suppliers and their products. Adverts by suppliers contribute to the financing of this work merely published with low print runs.

Besides the group of developers of cosmetic agents, the raw material encyclopaedia may be looked upon as being very specifically oriented. For dermatologists it could be of interest that in the scope of their allergological activity the side-effects of cosmetics are to be dealt with very extensively. It may be helpful for pharmacists for the cosmetic consultation of patients suffering from contact allergies and it may incite towards the in-house production of cosmetics.

The current work in its present form does not represent a cosmetics annual in the sense that current trends are discussed in essays oriented in individual subjects. Reference is made on the furnishing of a CD - identical in content - which may without doubt considerably facilitate the practical work. The work is also available in English language under the title "Ingredients Guide 2005/2006".

Prof. Dr. med. H. C. Korting, München



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